2018
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M045_時尚鬼才：McQueen 2023.01.22 【簡介】 電影中用不同的章節，將亞歷山大・麥昆的一生切分成不同階段，並在各個階段中選一場麥昆代表性的秀場作為註腳。另外加上麥昆過去的訪談紀錄和他周邊的人們的回憶訪談，讓觀眾得以一窺麥昆跌宕起伏、充滿傳奇的一生，並使觀眾更了解這位時尚鬼才從默默無聞到在時尚界佔有一席之地中間的心路歷程變化。 . 【感想】 這是在Giloo紀實影音平台 @giloo.ist 上觀賞的電影，謝謝讓我看到很棒的電影。 我偶爾會看看各個時尚品牌的秀場講解，還有時尚名人的故事介紹。雖然還是一個時尚小白，但是我一直很喜歡秀場中那些精心設計過的服飾，以及在不同套服飾之間，還有和場景搭配後，所想要傳達的故事與理念。那是一種非常衝擊的過程，會令人不斷驚呼：「原來這個概念可以如此用服飾來呈現！」同時也能一邊享受設計師仔細構思創造出的各種服飾與配件們，其在「美」這個主題上所帶來的視覺饗宴。有時看著秀場中不同look的照片，都會讓我好希望能穿過螢幕，實際用眼睛去看看實品，用手去感受不同布料滑過指尖的觸感，還有體驗當人們穿上它們後在氣質與形象上所帶來的轉變。 而在整部電影之中，我最喜歡麥昆在2000年9月26日名為《沃斯》（Voss）的秀場。我想可能是因為我也有過那種被壓力逼得幾近崩潰的時刻吧，即使客觀而言我當時的壓力肯定不及麥昆的百分之一。但是徘徊在現實與崩潰之間如同走在鋼索上的狀態，在我感到痛苦的同時，卻也對它深深著迷。那時候我創造出的作品也是最具有生命力和感染力的，是平時的我無法企及的完美成果。所以在我看到《沃斯》這個秀場時，總覺得我留在那段時間的靈魂被這場秀所觸動，產生震耳欲聾的共鳴，似乎我當時的苦痛與搖擺不定都被麥昆捕捉到，並放在秀場中了。 在看完麥昆波瀾壯闊的一生之後，總覺得令人十分感慨。上天在給了麥昆超群的能力與創意的同時，也讓他經歷了常人無法承受的折磨與壓力。希望在他去到另一個世界之後，能夠繼續享受做衣服帶給他的快樂，還有和他所愛之人一起過上快樂的生活。 . 【觸動的句子】 1.我不管別人對我的觀感，我不管我對自己的觀感，所以我會探索我最黑暗的那一面，把我的恐懼抽出靈魂，然後呈現在伸展台上。（I didn't care about what people thought of me, and I didn't care what I thought of myself, so I would go to the far reaches of my dark side, and pull these horrors out of my soul and put them on the catwalk. ） 2.亞歷山大・麥昆：「大家都忘了時尚的目的。時尚的目的是吸引對象、展現出性魅力，時尚要展現出一個人的特質。」 3.亞歷山大・麥昆：「我當時抽脂時，正處於時尚界最邪惡的一面，那是我人生很糟糕的時期（When I had the liposuction, I was in the thick of the evil-est side of fashion you could ever be in. It was just a fucking mad period in my life.）」 4.麥昆的朋友兼經紀人愛麗絲・史密斯（Alice Smith）：「他改變容貌後表示：『我改變了自己，這樣做不好，因為我完全看不到原來的自己。』」 5.亞歷山大・麥昆：「人生並非完美，我們也是，我們不是超苗條的模特兒，但情人眼裡出西施。」 6.亞歷山大・麥昆：「我不會氣我自己，我是氣這個世界。我的心已向下沉淪。我試著阻止它，但沒辦法。我回想的一切都是黑暗的。（I'm not angry with myself, I'm angry with the world. My mind won't go anywhere else. I tried to stop it but it won't. Everything I'm reverting to is darker.）」 7.亞歷山大・麥昆：「我有時對我的工作和人生感到悲傷。我很悲傷，但不怨懟，因為我很感激出現在我生命中的一切，但我知道何時該放手。（I seem sad at times about my work and my life. I'm sad, but I'm not bitter, because I'm grateful for everything that's happened in my life, but I know when the time is to give it up.）」 . #Burnink_電影 #Burnink_Movie @burnink_98 #時尚鬼才McQueen #McQueen #伊恩博霍特 #IanBonhôte #彼得艾特吉 #PeterEttedgui #英國 #Britain #時尚 #Fashion #秀場 #Show #Giloo紀實影音 @giloo.ist #紀錄片
Alexander McQueen的回顧展「野性之美」於2015年盛大舉辦於其故土倫敦，關於「野性之美」的延伸閱讀：https://www.artzip.org/alexander-mcqueen-savage-beauty
Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty亚历山大·麦昆：野性之美 - ART.ZIP片中陳述一路以來Alexander McQueen與摯友Isabella Blow的生命點滴，抽離所有現實的來來去去，兩個人對於生命的經歷，過去的傷痕，到最後終究走不出那陰霾，也讓人不禁思考，在所有光鮮亮麗的外表下，到底內心是否是完整的，我們該如何看透？
自從Alexander McQueen在2010年突然辭世，這部關於他的紀錄片《時尚鬼才：McQueen》終於在2018年姍姍來遲，再次提醒世界曾榮幸擁有這個天才般的存在，他短暫而精彩萬分的創作生涯，開啟了時尚、設計、藝術的全新⋯⋯
To document an extraordinary soul through the lens is to constantly wrestle with the dilemma of completeness. How can one capture the vastness of a life within the limited time of a film? It challenges the filmmaker’s depth of understanding and precision of perspective. Rather than striving for an all-encompassing portrait, it may be more powerful to focus on select moments—those glimmers that illuminate the subject’s essence. The camera becomes not only a tool to pierce through the surface, but also a means for sincere conversation with the person in front of it.
In today’s society, where everything is measured by “efficiency,” the value and effectiveness of “art” and “making art” are constantly questioned. The themed selection What Art Can Do reveals that the act of creating art defies quantifiable KPIs. Artistic creation can withstand the challenges of value-driven thinking—if we are willing to rethink what “value” truly means. After all, every interpretation of value begins with humanity.
For me, most of my creative work stems from past life experiences—sometimes shaped by my feelings toward a city, other times sparked by an interest in a particular issue. These elements collectively form the thread of thought that defines who I am in the present. What draws me most to documentary films is the opportunity to follow a director’s unique perspective—like stepping into a time tunnel, witnessing the unfolding of people, events, and moments. And it’s from these deeply felt encounters that I find the inspiration to transform them into new creative energy.
Our world is shaped by design. Spaces, clothing, typography—these elements quietly determine how we live, often without us noticing. Let’s turn our attention to the overlooked details and forgotten corners. How do people with a heightened sensitivity to the world around them experience a city? How do they wear their beliefs? How do they bring imagination into form through their hands? How do they speak about design? And how can design be discussed beyond the realm of iconic masters? What everyday creativity lies just within reach, waiting to be seen?
In the month of 9/11 in the early 2000s, graphic design master Milton Glaser, creator of "I ❤️ NY," powerfully expressed the hopeful and fearless spirit of New Yorkers with a new poster: "I ❤️ NY MORE THAN EVER." The magic of New York's spirit captivated me, drawing me to move to the city two years later. In 2005, I lived in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, across the river—a dreamland for hippies and artists. Shepard Fairey's graffiti adorned the streets, and at night, for just five dollars, you could slip through a small door into a food warehouse by the river to hear all sorts of wild music performances. At that time, there was no social media, and artists expressed themselves to the world in a very pure way. Banksy secretly hung his work in the Metropolitan Museum of Art, only to be discovered by security two hours later. Marina Abramović and her partner Ulay finally gazed into each other's eyes amidst the sprawling queues at MoMA. After Alexander McQueen passed away, "Savage Beauty" at the Metropolitan Museum became a city-wide sensation. These slightly aged, yet fortunately experienced, New York moments—their initial shock and emotion—have been permanently sealed as scenes, shaping my future attitude towards art and design.
"I want to keep creating until my final breath—always shaking people to their core." So said the sensational artist Yayoi Kusama, whose bold vision reshaped a generation’s sense of beauty. But what is art? And what isn’t? Giloo presents a selection of eight biographical documentaries, offering a rare glimpse into the lives of trailblazers who have redefined aesthetic boundaries and challenged the way we see the world.
Drawing from Nietzsche’s concept of the “untimely” (Unzeitgemäß), Giorgio Agamben reinterprets the question of the contemporary. For Nietzsche, to be contemporary is to place oneself in a state of rupture and disintegration: “Those who truly belong to their time are those who neither conform to its demands nor adapt to its rhythms. Precisely through this misalignment, they perceive and grasp their era more acutely than anyone else.” Visionary artists often belong to this untimely realm. From the tragic brilliance of fashion icon Alexander McQueen, to Chinese photographer Ren Hang’s raw, poetic gaze; from the transcendent cinema of Andrei Tarkovsky, to the solitary grandeur of Austrian writer Peter Handke, and the provocative anti-totalitarian performance of Laibach—these creators exist where genius borders on madness. Watch how they spark moments of radiance within the mundanity of flesh—the fleeting glow of existence.
Founded in 1993, the Hot Docs Canadian International Documentary Festival is the largest documentary festival in North America. Held every spring in Toronto, it serves as a pivotal stage for international documentary filmmakers to market and premiere their new works. From past Hot Docs selections, Giloo has curated nine cross-border films, inviting audiences to step into the lives captured through the lens.
In 2022, we find ourselves constantly surrounded by art. The devotion, creativity, and craftsmanship poured into a single garment by a designer — that is wearable art. The serenity we feel when venturing into the mountains or stepping into a temple — that is reverence for nature, the most organic form of art. To the artist, art can be a precise calculation, a challenge to the limits, or a stirring portrayal of the masses and their stories. Art can even be a radical force for social change. Long before you ever “knew” art, it had already seeped into your everyday life. On this sleepless night, take to the familiar streets and experience the resonance created when art intervenes in the city.